The second day of Women’s Arab Fashion Week – Couture – Spring Summer 2022 kick-off with the renowned Indonesian label HIAN TJEN, Russian HUMARIFF, British label LULU LIU, Polish label DOROTA GOLDPOINT, and Dubai based MICHAEL CINCO.
Magical, Layers, and Euphoric are the keywords of the Second Day.
Diversity, equality and life cycle is the headline, featuring Caroline Labouchere and the Council’s Curvy Ambassador, Ameni Esseibi.
Emirati, Lebanese, Tunisian and Sudanese female models walked the runway.
HIAN TJEN X MAKEOVER
Hian Tjen is a master of his craft. Couture fashion is what he’s well-known for. An ESMOD graduate, Hian created his brand and managed to carve a niche in the market for making elaborate detail-oriented pieces that are imaginative and dreamlike; sheer fabrics melded with classic Asian inspired prints, and rich deep colorways.
As expected, Hian Tjen has triumphed in creating Haute Couture; where his culture was heavily represented, and with great impact; from the complex and intricately designed beading, to the conversational prints. Two-piece swimsuits, and dresses featured landscape or miniature rural scenes. Spring took on a different element as gowns in soft sheer blue fabric featured true jungle imagery with animals, and creatively drawn foliage. His green embroidered dress gave the illusion of a two-piece flowing set. The placement of the waist, and sheer fabric was truly inventive.
Hian also had Asian inspired prints on light quilted fabrics, and blazers in traditional and none-traditional silhouettes. The pieces with the feathered trim are also inspiring, especially against the darker shades of black and deep blue. Animal prints had a fun twist too; they were easily recognizable, but ingeniously altered. His most sultry couture gown was constructed of red draped sateen, and sheer fabric with hand prints strategically covering the bust. The sheer fabric he placed his patterns on are liken to tattoos on the skin. The show closer was even more impressive. The model wore a marvelous gold headdress, feathered floor-length coverall, and multicolored earth toned gown. It was a great finish and definitely made a mark for Hian Tjen this Spring/Summer 2022.
Humariff is a popular and in demand Russian couture brand, named after the designer; Tamam Humariff, who is also the manufacturer of each lush and preciously detailed wedding gown. Their items are so exclusive; it has an identification number. Only one replica is made per design. Tamam has at least 14 collections to date.
Humariff’s designs have remarkable texture. Each dress featured either showed innovative gathered details, or accordion style texture on fine quality delicate fabrics. The asymmetrical light-blue off-shoulder gown was modest, with cleverly gathered details on the shoulder, and sheer sleeve finish.
The purple metallic gown with silvery steel like details gave a soft ‘armor’ vibe, and brought its own edginess to Spring Haute Couture. Tamam Humariff created a gown with gold-leaf encrusted details on the bust, and flowing floral elements of the same color on silky-satiny fabric. Colors in the tones of precious earth tones; then lavender shades gave the collection a softened touch. The fiery orange gown had an illustrious effect. The silhouette was fitting for such a bold color. The subtly puckered shoulders, accordion style train, and sweet waist-bow; gave the overall look a queen-like poise.
The lighter hues of berry, pink, green, and white worked perfectly in soft layered ruffles; and gem laced leaf details. Deep green is also trending, and was dainty, on dresses billowing as the models walked. Overall; Tamam Humariff’s collection touched on virtually every perception of spring: soft pastels and beautiful blooms, or solid earth inspired elements; that help spawn those lovely flowers. Her Spring/Summer Couture Collection brilliant and beautiful.
Graduating from the esteemed London College of fashion, and specializing in Haute Couture Embroidery from Ecole Lesage Paris, Lulu Liu (Lulu Yilu) is a figure in the fashion couture scene. Her numerous awards have been garnered through her hard work, and pursuit of being the very best designer in her own right. Her collections are known for its modern silhouettes, brilliant colors, and artistic conservative styles.
Gathered ruffles, with feathered details, and sparkling elements were expressed delicately throughout the Lulu Yilu Spring 2022 collection. Patterns were likened to paint splashed. The opening couture piece featured a full volume coat-like shawl, in deep blue tone. The pink gown underneath it was a great shade to bring out the details of the shawl.
LuLu’s A-line dress showed how a garment piece could also share the traits of an accessory. The lovely rose color with gold beading gave the classic black dress a modern touch. The peplum style dresses also had touches of Spring’s most popular trends; ruffled sleeves, and strapless design. The color coordination was excellent in this collection. Every item had an illuminating effect. The cocktail dresses also had different placement of the ruffles: on the bust or around the waist. Feathered trims are also shown. There is even a gown that is covered in white feathers.
It was a nice twist to see a lace couture garment in this collection; combined with silvery pants. Orange was a color also featured in the LuLu Couture collection; with paint splashed in a contrasting green shade. This particular gown had an interesting design; the added cummerbund-like piece was layered on the bust, and from the back; gave the gown structure.
Of course, the closing gown was immaculately poised; various sized ruffles, gather-bunched fine cloth, and sheer black fabric encapsulating it. It was full bloom in white, cream, and off-white. LuLu brought such a unique perspective to Haute Couture this Spring 2022. She is petite, but a hugely talented designer.
Dorota Goldpoint is an expressive Polish fashion designer, with goals to drape women in luxurious goods they will cherish forever. She is a staple in couture fashion. Her gowns are sewn from natural textiles of silk, satin, crepe, chiffon, and organza; just to mention a few. Dorota dresses celebrities in her native country too, like First Lady of the Republic Agata Kornhauser-Duda. She is a staple in couture fashion.
One knew right away what to anticipate in Dorata Goldpoints Haute Couture Collection. From the start, the wave of classic and timeless glamour ensued. The cuts were very conservative, with vintage floral prints, and soft pink hues. Collared gowns, and gold embroidered details on the shoulders also gave that classic vintage appeal. There was also fur featured, and helped the collection stay consistent with Haute Couture. The gold gown, with its large flounced sleeves was also stunning. The high-lo style of a few gowns in the collection was an unexpected. That silhouette is retro, and highlighted the trends of the season. The hat accessories are remarkable too; top hat with lace and a bumper style; both with floral elements.
As the collection went on, the high-lo style evolved into single satin layered petal-like fabrics. Capes and lengthy shawls were also featured, and on soft pinkish lavender hues. It was a nice ease into the gowns with the brighter shade of fuchsia pink. Once again, fur made its presence on the runway in pink trim. The vintage style of the entire collection is versatile and first-class. It’s a sophisticated and lavish conservative look. Gold’s symbolic reference to quality, can be found in this collection. Dorota Goldpoint has a way of introducing the most timeless styles back into the fold, thereby exposing the new class of Haute Couture enthusiast to relate-able modest fashion.
Michael Cinco is impressive when it comes to couture fashion. He’s a high ranking designer with mastered creative techniques and an eye for elegance in style. Lux and fabulous fashion is what Michael Cinco is all about. His clothing sports Swarovski crystals, on high quality textiles.
As usual, Michael Cinco’s presentation is not only a showcase of the new collection but also a show of emotions that continuously mesmerize the audience. The audience experienced 20 minutes of breathtaking scenography and live storytelling with adrenaline at its peak. This season’s couture Spring Summer 2022 narrated the tree of life, and how glorious one can be at all ages and with all forms of shape and diversity. Furthermore, it highlighted how the older generation passed on the glory to the younger ones. It started when the renowned Caroline Labouchere, walked on the clouds like a powerful matriarch, followed by the well-known curvy model Ameni Esseibi, who has just been named the first Curvy Ambassador of Arab Fashion Council. The story continued to leave an impression on the collection and keep the audience amazed throughout the entire evening. From the start; the white couture gowns, suits, and outerwear is utterly fabulous. His collection had every trend in silhouette, and trim. Each look had a sort of ‘eternal’ feel. Like the cocktail A-line dress with 3D detail and a cropped blazer; there was a futuristic element. Full on white menswear blazer and trouser sets were sleek. The wide leg pants are a nice break from the tapered trouser styles.
More on trend; the bodycon dress, with ruffled-flounce sleeves featured floral bejeweled designs. Two-piece dress sets, with bralettes were fashioned impeccably, with elbow length gloves, and a sweet white clutch purse. His take on the collard dress was cool, with bell-sleeves and a fanned beaded design on the front. The men utility style jacket in all white is bold, with silver fabric placement, and epaulettes on the shoulder. The metallic silver leaf-like patterns on the dresses was Michael’s tribute to spring. The same foliage style could be seen in the body contouring floor length gowns. The craftsmanship that went into the details of the adorned sheer fabric is breathtaking. The flounced fabric on the shoulders of the gowns and on the waist is also impressive. As the collection went on; a very artistic avant-garde blazer was shown. The face and tassel on a men blazer is innovative, as well as the stencil drawn floral pattern on his billowing strapless floor-length gowns. The use of gold and silver fabric and it’s sparkling details was goddess-like. The blue and green gowns are fanciful, and have boasts a tie-dyed look to them. The swirls and style of the art gave the dresses a pleasant illusion aesthetic. Michael Cinco’s collection for Spring 2022 is a masterpiece in every way.